What should I check first for Maytag washer error F8E1?

Press POWER. The washer starts an 8-to-10 minute drain routine, running the pump continuously and accepting no input — wait the 10 minutes out before trying anything else.

What usually causes Maytag washer error F8E1?

A water faucet or valve not fully open

F8E1Low

Maytag washer error F8E1

F8E1 means the washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water. The top-load table words it as the washer taking too long to fill, the front-load table as sensing a low flow of water.

Also shows as F8 E1, LF, FL, Lo FL, LO FL

Symptom
F8E1
Free checks
10 checks
Then the part
A water faucet or valve not fully open

The 10 free checks

Start at the top. Unplug the machine first.

01
Press POWER. The washer starts an 8-to-10 minute drain routine, running the pump continuously and accepting no input — wait the 10 minutes out before trying anything else.
02
Check both hot and cold valves are fully open and both hoses connected; the washer needs both.
03
Check the inlet hoses are not kinked.
04
With the hoses off, run water through each at a sink and note whether either runs noticeably slower than the other.
05
Check the hoses are on the right valves — red to hot, blue to cold.
06
Turn off the supply, remove the hoses with pliers into a bucket, and brush any scale off the inlet screens with an old toothbrush and mild soap, leaving the screens in place.
07
Check the drain hose reaches no more than 4.5 in (113 mm) into the drainpipe, using the U-shaped hose form.
08
Check the drain hose is not taped in, and that a gap remains for airflow.
09
Check the top of the drainpipe is at least 39 in (99 cm) above the floor.
10
Check both water supply valves behind the washer are fully open, and in winter check the fill lines for freezing.

What causes it

Listed most likely first.

Cause	How often	DIY
A water faucet or valve not fully open	Most common	Yes
Inlet hose kinked, restricting flow	Common	Yes
Inlet screens clogged with mineral build-up or debris	Common	Yes
The drain system lets the washer siphon, so it never reaches its expected level	Common	Yes
A supply hose itself clogged with mineral build-up	Occasional	Yes
Hot and cold hoses connected to the wrong valves	Occasional	Yes
An anti-flood device in the water line reducing pressure	Occasional	Yes
Drain hose extending more than 4.5 in (113 mm) into the drainpipe	Occasional	Yes
Drain hose taped into the drainpipe, blocking the air gap	Rare	Yes
Drainpipe shorter than the 39 in (99 cm) minimum, letting water flow out by gravity	Rare	Yes

Differences by model

Series	What differs
Top load	The top-load table stops at checking the water supply and links to the fuller article.
Front load	The front-load table adds the clear-code sequence: Pause or Cancel twice, then Power once.

Before you check anything

Disconnect the power first. Unplug the machine at the socket, or switch off its circuit at the consumer unit if it is hard-wired. Do this before opening any panel, reaching into a pump filter, or moving the appliance.
Turn off the water before disconnecting a hose, and have a towel and a shallow tray ready — a drain hose holds water even when the drum looks empty.
Gas, mains wiring and sealed refrigeration are for a qualified professional — in many countries that is a legal requirement, not advice. If you smell gas, do not touch any switch: leave, and call your gas emergency number from outside.
Stop if you smell burning, see scorched wiring, or find water near an electrical connection. None of those is a code to look up.

The checks on this page are the manufacturer’s own, rewritten and sourced, and they are reference information rather than a repair instruction for your particular machine. Model, age and installation all change what is safe to do. You are the one standing in front of it — if a step looks wrong for the machine you have, trust that and call a technician.