LG washer error codes

Find your code below, then run the free checks before buying anything. Each row says what the code means and how serious it is.

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Showing all 14 codes

The 14 LG washer codes verified so far, whether or not each has its own page. Manufacturers document codes across several places, so a code missing here is one we have not confirmed yet — not one that does not exist. 6 of 14 have passed review: those are the boxed codes, and they open a full page with the free checks and the causes in order. The rest are rows — they state the meaning and stop there, because a second independent source has not confirmed enough to write more.
Code	Also shows as	What it means	Category	Severity	Effort
OE	—	LG washer error OE means the washer is draining slowly or not at all. Start at the drain hose and the drain pump filter — both are checks you can do yourself.	Not draining	Medium	Free check
IE	1E_display_confusion	LG washer error IE means the washer did not reach its first expected water level within 8 minutes, or its final level within 25 minutes. The usual reason is a closed tap, a kinked hose or a blocked inlet filter.	Not filling	Low	Free check
UE	uE	UE is an unbalance error. Lowercase uE means the machine is still retrying redistribution; uppercase UE means it gave up and needs intervention.	Unbalanced or overloaded	Low	Free check
dE	dE1 · dE2	LG washer error dE means the door is not locking, so the cycle will not start. It can also appear as dE1, dEL or dE2.	Door or lid lock	Medium	Cheap part
LE	—	LG washer error LE means the drive motor is locked and cannot turn. A load too heavy for the drum is the first thing to rule out.	Motor	High	Major repair
tE	—	LG washer error tE is a heating fault, and the drum thermistor — the temperature sensor — is the usual cause.	Heating	Medium	Cheap part
FE	—	FE means the washer has overfilled — a stuck inlet valve or a failed pressure sensor. Unplug the machine to stop it filling.	Overflowing	High	Major repair
PF	—	PF means the power failed during the cycle. Restart the cycle.	Power	Info	Free check
CL	—	CL means Child Lock is active. It is not a fault: hold the Child Lock button for about three seconds to clear it.	Not a fault	Info	Free check
FF	—	FF is a freeze failure: the inlet or drain hose is frozen, so it appears alongside OE or IE in freezing weather. Thaw before use.	Frozen or weather	Medium	Free check
tCL	—	tCL is a Tub Clean reminder, not a fault. Run the tub clean cycle.	Not a fault	Info	Free check
vS	uS	vS is a vibration sensor fault on top-load models.	Sensor	Medium	Major repair
PE	—	PE means the washer cannot read its water level sensor. A power interruption often brings it on, in which case a reset clears it.	Sensor	Medium	Free check
EE	—	EE means the memory on the main control board (its EEPROM) is corrupted. A power cycle is the only free remedy; if the code survives it, the board is replaced.	Control board or panel	Medium	Major repair

Before you check anything

Disconnect the power first. Unplug the machine at the socket, or switch off its circuit at the consumer unit if it is hard-wired. Do this before opening any panel, reaching into a pump filter, or moving the appliance.
Turn off the water before disconnecting a hose, and have a towel and a shallow tray ready — a drain hose holds water even when the drum looks empty.
Gas, mains wiring and sealed refrigeration are for a qualified professional — in many countries that is a legal requirement, not advice. If you smell gas, do not touch any switch: leave, and call your gas emergency number from outside.
Stop if you smell burning, see scorched wiring, or find water near an electrical connection. None of those is a code to look up.

The checks on this page are the manufacturer’s own, rewritten and sourced, and they are reference information rather than a repair instruction for your particular machine. Model, age and installation all change what is safe to do. You are the one standing in front of it — if a step looks wrong for the machine you have, trust that and call a technician.