Speed Queen washer error codes

Find your code below, then run the free checks before buying anything. Each row says what the code means and how serious it is.

Worth knowing about Speed Queen

Most of Speed Queen's published fault codes are not machine faults. Its washers and dryers are widely used in laundromats, and the code list is dominated by commercial plumbing: infrared "micro-wand" programming errors, chip-card reader failures, coin-vault and break-in alarms, and loyalty-purse read and write errors. Those tell a laundromat operator something and tell a person with a Speed Queen at home nothing, so they are left out here. If your display shows an EC: or EI: code, or Alrm or OFF, it concerns the payment and programming system rather than the washer.

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Showing all 15 codes

The 15 Speed Queen washer codes verified so far, whether or not each has its own page. Manufacturers document codes across several places, so a code missing here is one we have not confirmed yet — not one that does not exist. None has a page yet: each still needs confirmation from a second, independent source, so these rows state the meaning and nothing more.
Code	Also shows as	What it means	Category	Severity	Effort
door	—	door is the door-open indicator. If the door is actually shut, the door switch or its wiring is the suspect.	Door or lid lock	Medium	Free check
E:0d	—	E:0d is a pressure switch error — the control cannot read the water level correctly.	Sensor	Medium	Free check
E:dF	—	E:dF is a drive failure: the motor or its tachometer circuit is open, so the control cannot drive or measure the drum.	Motor	High	Free check
E:dL	—	E:dL is a door lock error — the lock will not engage.	Door or lid lock	Medium	Free check
E:dO	—	E:dO means the door was open during a running cycle.	Door or lid lock	Medium	Free check
E:dr	—	E:dr is a drain error: either the maximum drain time was exceeded, or water is still detected at the end of the spin.	Not draining	Medium	Free check
E:FL	—	E:FL is a fill error, raised when the pressure switch has not opened within 30 minutes on any fill-and-agitate cycle.	Not filling	Low	Free check
E:HT	—	E:HT is a heater error — a component in the heating circuit has failed.	Heating	Medium	Free check
E:OP	—	E:OP means the temperature sensor circuit is open.	Sensor	Medium	Free check
E:SH	—	E:SH means the temperature sensor is shorted.	Sensor	Medium	Free check
E:Pr	—	E:Pr is a pressure switch sequence error: the switch did not change state in the order the control expects.	Sensor	Medium	Free check
E:SP	—	E:SP is an SPI communication error between the control boards.	Control board or panel	Medium	Free check
E:Ub	—	E:Ub is an unbalance error — the load needs redistributing.	Unbalanced or overloaded	Low	Free check
E:07	—	E:07 means the control is inoperative.	Control board or panel	Medium	Free check
E:08	—	E:08 means the control is inoperative.	Control board or panel	Medium	Free check

Before you check anything

Disconnect the power first. Unplug the machine at the socket, or switch off its circuit at the consumer unit if it is hard-wired. Do this before opening any panel, reaching into a pump filter, or moving the appliance.
Turn off the water before disconnecting a hose, and have a towel and a shallow tray ready — a drain hose holds water even when the drum looks empty.
Gas, mains wiring and sealed refrigeration are for a qualified professional — in many countries that is a legal requirement, not advice. If you smell gas, do not touch any switch: leave, and call your gas emergency number from outside.
Stop if you smell burning, see scorched wiring, or find water near an electrical connection. None of those is a code to look up.

The checks on this page are the manufacturer’s own, rewritten and sourced, and they are reference information rather than a repair instruction for your particular machine. Model, age and installation all change what is safe to do. You are the one standing in front of it — if a step looks wrong for the machine you have, trust that and call a technician.